How long after bottling can you drink

Don't over-prime. Be clean. Then just keep the bottles in the coldest darkest place you have access to. I do not refrigerate my beer until it is ready to drink, generally about 2 weeks after bottling.

I will leave it at room temperature, out of the sun, indefinitely from the time I bottle it until I am ready to drink it. My process is to bottle condition at room temperature then every 7 days put a bottle in the fridge overnight and give it the taste test. I carbonate with unfermented beer Speise instead of sugar.

I agree with DAX, have put bottled beer directly into the fridge. It takes about weeks, but will carbonate.

The carbonation may be finer smaller bubbles but is adequate. Don't think it really adds much just did it many years ago as an experiment, comparing to room temp carbonation from same batch. Well, I just made my first batch. Tastes great..

I think I was clean, and I thought it was done carbonating. I got one bottle bomb after 7 days.. I how have drunk two other bottles, They both were only a little over-carbonated, but I daren't leave them out. Of course this is after at least 2 weeks of priming time outside the fridge at about 70 degs. I have also had some brews that maybe I bottled too early or otherwise I noticed they were overcarbonated or had a bottle explode. For these types I would definitely rush them all into the fridge to stop the yeast from carbonating any further.

I do the same. We've been having a heatwave recently and I'm trying to determine if the bottles are too hot. Probably closer to 80 degrees, but I have no way to cool. I did put the fermenter in a bus tub of water and wrapped with a wet beach towel, but as far as the bottles are concerned, they are on their own. I have left multiple beers to condition at room temp for 7 days after bottling, and then put them in the fridge.

They were tasty, carbonated, and totally fine to drink. That said, letting them condition for an extra week or two has made some of the IPAs I have brewed improve. I usually bottle a few ml bottles so I can pop one in every few days past 7 days to see how things are going.

Lately I have been brewing some really hazy stuff. I think these hazy IPAs are usually much better fresh, as this leftover hop matter can result in the beer not aging as well as some other ales. I have bottled a batch and it is conditioning right now. I will try and get back once I have tasted a few at various stages 1 week room temp, 2 weeks, etc. I ferment ales until they stop making gas, typically days.

After that I leave them for around 3 weeks, 70 degrees, in the bottle, in the dark, upright. Never a problem! Sign up to join this community. The best answers are voted up and rise to the top. Stack Overflow for Teams — Collaborate and share knowledge with a private group.

Create a free Team What is Teams? Learn more. Am I required to refrigerate bottles after bottling? In theory you could make a much larger scale version to house enough beers from your average 5 gallon batch. If you have one of these cool pieces of kit, why would you be bottling anyway? Just by running your air conditioning you can keep your storage room cool enough to bottle condition your beer. You can actually use your standard fridge to help cool your beers with one small addition.

This will more than likely lead to undesirable off-flavors in your beer. Priming sugar is pretty much essential to this process, and using the correct amount will ensure the best results. You can either add a certain amount of sugar to your beer in the bottling bucket by using a handy priming sugar calculator or add carbonation drops see Amazon to each bottle.

If you are adding powdered sugar directly into your beer, make sure that you give the beer a gentle but thorough stir. That was a tip I learned the hard way. If this is something you are dealing with right now, then check out my article on how to fix exploding beer bottles. It may seem obvious, but many a new homebrewer has skipped this important step.

The best method is to match the bottle to the beer you are brewing, especially if you are going for a higher ABV beer or one with a lot of carbonation required. Bottles are designed to withstand the pressure of the beers they hold, so just keep this in mind. However, whenever possible opt for brown glass bottles as they will help protect against UV light.

This is the thing which I think most homebrewers misunderstand, and I was certainly one of them for my first couple of batches.

There is a big difference between the temperature you should serve a beer at and the temperature it needs to be bottle conditioned at.

In general, all beers except perhaps some Belgian ales which are being aged, need to be bottled conditioned at the SAME temperature as it was fermented.

So if you are brewing in seasons with warmer or colder temperatures than that, you need to consider bottle conditioning your beer in a fermentation chamber see my article for more details. This is in order to carbonate your beer and add that special little something that only comes from bottle conditioning. Just as you should be doing when fermenting your beer in your fermenter, keep your bottles out of direct sunlight.

This is mainly because UV light can have a negative effect on the flavor of your beer, especially if you are using clear glass bottles. The main difference between regular and conditioned beer is that the conditioned beer still ferments in the bottle. Theoretically, you can leave the bottles intact for much longer than a few weeks, and some brewers keep beer for months or even years.

Few factors influence bottle-conditioning duration, including:. The beer style and the alcohol content you desire are crucial when planning bottle conditioning. However, imperial stouts, Belgian ales, or English porters belong to malt- and yeast-focused beer.

They need more time, so you should leave the bottles intact for at least five to six weeks. Healthy yeast is a necessary prerequisite for the bottle condition process. Still, Yeast flocculation can make it inactive and result in slower and longer second fermentation.

Besides, filtering beer can remove some yeast cells, resulting in under-carbonation. That is why many brewers pitch more yeast in the bottling bucket. Nowadays, you can choose from many priming options, including corn sugar to malt extract, molasses, watermelon juice, and honey.

The prime sugar affects the final beer flavor and color and how long you need to condition it. Corn sugar belongs to simple fermenters , making it ideal for quick conditioning and carbonation. Contrary, honey will take a week or two more to resolve completely. It is not only the choice of sugar that matters but also its quantity. If you add too much sugar, you will have so-called exploding bottles as a result of over-carbonation.

The usual recipes include 4 ounces g of sugar per 5 gallons 19 liters brew. Still, an experienced brewer will adjust the recipe to fit the desired taste and carbonation level. If you keep your beer bottles in the dark and cold place, the brew will take longer to condition. It is simple as that. The warmer temperature speeds up the yeast activity and carbonates beer faster. Typically, brewers keep the temperature stable somewhere between 68 F 20 C and 80 F 27 C.

If you wait a couple of weeks and your beer is not ready, you need to adjust the temperature. There is no way to know if the carbonation is complete unless you open the bottle. If two weeks have passed, you can try one beer. Proper conditioning will result in the carbonated, tasty beer. You will also hear the hissing sound of carbonation when you open the bottle. On the other hand, you can safely leave the beer for up to four weeks to make sure yeast has used all the priming sugars.

Choosing the right beer bottle can affect your brew quality on several levels.